Caulk seals the joints that move: where the tub or shower floor meets the wall, the vertical corners, and around fixtures. It has a shorter life than tile or grout, and once it splits or pulls away, water runs straight behind the tub.
Recaulking is inexpensive maintenance that prevents costly repairs, as long as the old caulk is fully removed first.
Why Caulk Fails
Most failed caulk was either the wrong product or applied over the old bead.
- Acrylic or "tub and tile" caulk used where pure silicone was needed
- New caulk applied on top of old, so it never bonded
- Joints caulked while damp
- A tub that flexes because it was not set in mortar
- Mold growing underneath a bead that has lifted at the edges
How We Recaulk
Every bit of old caulk comes out, including residue, using blades and silicone remover. The joint is cleaned, treated for mildew and dried thoroughly. We then apply 100 percent silicone, color-matched to your grout or fixtures, and tool it to a neat, slightly concave bead.
On tubs, we fill the tub with water before caulking so the joint is sealed at its widest. The silicone needs about 24 hours before the shower is used.
Where Caulk Belongs, and Where It Does Not
Caulk goes at changes of plane: corners, the wall-to-tub joint, the wall-to-floor joint, around the valve plate and where glass meets tile. It does not belong smeared over cracked grout lines in the middle of a wall. That calls for grout repair. If caulk keeps failing quickly, the tub or wall may be moving, and we will look at why.
Need something else? See all of our tile repair & regrouting services, or learn more about your local tile contractor in Arlington, VA.
